The Grand Palace is more than just the most famous landmark of Bangkok. In many ways it is Bangkok. The city we know today had its birth as the new capital city of King Rama I, the founder of the Chakri dynasty. He built the first Royal Palaces here in 1782, forming a world-within-a-world on the newly-created island of Rattanakosin, on the banks of the Chao Phraya River.
The complex was envisaged as a fortified city in its own right, and the white castellated walls defining its four sides still shield the Grand Palace today. Each King since Rama I has left his mark here. The glided spires, and stacked tiled roofs have risen into a giddy and exhilarating example of what can be achieved with absolute power, and your own architectural playground.
While long being the seat of government, a religious centre and royal residence, since 1932 much of the Palace has been opened up to the public, with the rest reserved only for ceremonial duties. The complex is divided into three courts – Outer, Middle and Inner – each with its own blend of traditional Thai, Chinese, Indian and European styles, their buildings ranging from temples to residencies, throne rooms to harems.
The entrance gate of the Visetchaisri Gate leads first to the splendour of Wat Phra Kaew – the Temple of the Emerald Buddha – the most sacred part of the complex. But there are many other treasures, deeper in. The audience hall of Dusit Maha Prasat has the spectacular Mother-of-Pearl Throne, where the early Kings of the dynasty were crowned. It was rescued from a fire in the original throne hall in 1789.
Adjacent is the Chakri Maha Prasat, a blend of neoclassical grace and exuberant Thai spires, which now houses a weapon museum. And even further in is the Inner Palace, with the king's harem, where their many wives and children once lived. Sadly, this part of the complex is not open to the public. Many of the Grand Palace buildings do, however, have free tours. But there is such a feast for the senses here, you could spend a life-time exploring, and still not be done.
