The majestic Burgtheater stands proud among the pretty parkland of the Rathauspark, one of the stand-out buildings of the Ringstraße (Vienna's elegant encircling boulevard). In fact it is the largest theatre in Europe, able to seat 1,200 theatregoers per performance. And with a history stretching back 250 years, it's widely recognised as the most important German language theatre in the world. But people don't just come here for the plays. They come here for the Klimt.
That's because this worthily built theatre is better known for the elegant decoration inside than the external facade. Its sublime staircase-ceiling paintings, completed in 1887, are by none other than Gustav Klimt. The Burgtheater was his first commission and big breakthrough. They consist of 10 panels illustrating the history of theatre, and include work by his brother, Ernst. Gustav has even painted himself – as a member of the audience for Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet – one of his few self-portraits.
Even then Klimt was controversial. His painting of the early Roman theatre was criticised for showing a little too much 'Roman decadence' – hinting at the bold path Klimt was to take later in his career. Fortunately for art-lovers, the near-complete destruction of the theatre by Allied bombing in 1945 missed the Klimt paintings. Now they are all beautifully restored, and can be seen on guided tours of the theatre.
But if you're looking for drama on the stage, rather than in the foyer, then the Burgtheater has plenty of that too. Its stage is not only the biggest in the world, at 28 metres by 23, it is literally revolutionary. It has a revolving stage design, built in 1955, which allows for scene changes in 40 seconds. It also has one of the most advanced stage-control and lighting systems in Europe.
That makes for the ability to put on some riveting productions. Most of the programme is naturally taken up by German-language plays. So if you want to take on a show at 'die Burg' – and your German is a little rusty – at least you can admire the fabulous technicality of its renowned productions.
