Don’t miss a visit to the oldest and arguably most famous café in Buenos Aires, Café Tortoni. This beautiful old coffeehouse was established in 1858 and has long played a part in the cultural life of the city. Enjoy a tango show in the downstairs theatre, admire the artworks on the walls or sip a hot drink where writers, artists and musicians once collaborated.
Everything about the Café Tortoni exudes 19th-century charm, from the doorman ushering you in through the brass-handled doors, to the beautiful and cosy décor. Light streams in from the stained-glass ceiling onto inviting wooden panels and marble tables. Beneath the chandeliers you can imagine yourself a part of the bohemian culture of the early 1900s, when Argentine literati would meet to enjoy a cortado (espresso with warm milk).
The café’s famous visitors include tango singer Carlos Gardel and Argentine writer Jorge Luis Borges. A life-sized bust of the writer can be seen in the café, along with artworks and old photographs. Play a game of billiards in the Sala Eladia Blázquez, named after the tango singer who famously sang a song about the café.
Try traditional Argentine café food, including croissants and cheese. Dessert-lovers should taste the churros con chocolate, a traditional fried pastry dusted with sugar and served with thick hot chocolate for dipping. Café Tortoni’s prices can be a little inflated compared to other cafés, but the atmosphere and history make it worth the extra money.
Downstairs at the La Bodega theatre, see performances of tango twice a day from Monday to Friday. On weekends the tango show is held in the intimate Sala Alfonsina Storni room. These events are very popular so it’s best to book in advance or arrive early to ensure you get a table. Check the café’s official website for details.
Café Tortoni is on Avenida de Mayo, just a few blocks from Plaza de Mayo. Catch a public bus, the metro or a hop-on, hop-off tourist bus.
The café is open every day. The best time to visit is in the morning or at night, when there are fewer tour groups.
