Far from the maddening crowd: top five Hanoi eateries

If you want to get an idea of how the people of Hanoi approach their food, ponder the ancient Vietnamese saying that goes: ‘You eat slowly, that is good for stomach; you plough deeply, that is good for fields.’

While the northern city is just as fast-paced and frenetic as its southern counterpart of Ho Chi Minh, when it comes to food the locals like to sit back and take their time. From French-inspired bakeries serving coffee and croissants to a gently simmering lau (hot pot) at a street stall, eating is a communal activity that draws upon the country’s multicultural influences and, as the quote suggests, dishes are heavily reliant on the surrounding land and sea.

So when the pace of life gets too hectic, head to one of our top-five favourite retreats for a spot of peace and quiet.

1. Fish sauce or nuoc mam

This is the number-one ingredient in Vietnamese cooking. It’s used in pretty much everything and is the savoury, salty hit you’ll find in the national dish – pho – the rice noodle soup that locals eat by the bowlful for breakfast, lunch and dinner. Grabbing a serve from a street-side vendor is all part of the fun, especially if you choose to do it at 47 Pho Mai Hac De, in the Hai Ba Trung district. As soon as you fancy a break from the honking horns and oppressive heat of this popular strip, make a beeline upstairs for the calm, rooftop oasis of Bo Tung Xeo. Here you can grill ginger-and-garlic marinated slices of beef at your own table-side barbecue. Just think of the pho as a starter and get stuck in.

2. That’s noodles and BBQ covered, what about rice?

In Vietnam rice (otherwise known as the ‘pearls of the gods’) forms the basis of every meal. Look out for restaurants with the word ‘com’ in the name – cheap, family run placesall about rice and whatever meat and vegetables might be available on the day. However, ensuring you get your daily dose of this basic grain doesn’t mean skimping on luxury and comfort. By far Hanoi’s most attractive restaurant, Emperor (18b Le Thanh Tong) is housed in a stunning colonial building. Don’t let the unassuming entrance fool you – inside you’ll find a leafy courtyard lit by torches and flickering candles, with staff wearing traditional áo dài dress. Seafood specials include soft-shell crab, steamed fish wrapped in banana leaves and grilled squid. Reminiscent of the imperial palaces of Hue (roughly 500km to the south), this is as close to eating like royalty as you’re likely to get. And the best bit? By Western standards, the prices are a steal.