Think of Bangkok and chances are that an image of Wat Saket will spring to mind. Its picture-postcard, brightly-burnished dome and spire, perched on The Golden Mount (Phu Khao Thong) dominate the old city. Including the burial mound (or chedi) it sits on, the bell on top of the spire reaches 60 metres up. It was long the highest point in the city.
Now Bangkok's skyline is crowded with more secular monuments. But tourists and worshippers alike still flock to this 150 year-old temple. It might be for the view. It might be to get closer to the holy relic of the Buddha (said to have been bought here by King Rama V). Either way, it's likely you'll feel supremely uplifted when you've clambered all 318 steps up the mound's spiralling staircase.
But for so symbolic a monument, Wat Saket took a troubled path to the summit of its achievement. King Rama III started, but couldn't finish it (the brick and earth chedi mound collapsed). King Ramam IV strengthened that mound, and started on the temple. But he too never saw the spire slide into place, dying before it was done. It was only with King Rama V, in the 1850s, that the golden gleam of the dome became a beacon for city-folk below.
A great time to visit Wat Saket is during Loy Krathong, a religious festival held in November. Arrive as night falls, and you may catch a ribbon of light winding its way around the Golden Mount. This candle-lit procession marks the start of the festival, after which the spire of Wat Saket is strung with fluttering red flags – and the fun-fair arrives. Who said religious ceremonies had to be serious and dour? Certainly not the Thais.
While Wat Saket is open daily, and free to get in, you'll be charged for entering the chedi itself. And think about getting the taxi – the walk from central Bangkok is long. A tail boat is another option, and can be picked up from the Klong Saen Saep jetty.
