Vysehrad Castle is both a quiet refuge and a place of historic oddities, that gives those who climb its hill some wonderful views – and a break from the city.
Take a step back from central Prague's tourist overload and head to Vysehrad Castle, a couple of kilometres south along the right bank of the River Vltava. The castle is spread out over a vast area of parkland, atop a hilly bluff overlooking the river. Step out onto its ramparts and you’ll get superb views down the Vltava valley, up to the Prague Castle, and over the Old Town.The ancient Bohemian dynasty of the Přemyslids liked the views too, and set up a castle here. According to legend, that fortification goes back to the mythical Princess Libuse, the first of the Přemyslids. More likely it was started in the 10th century. For a long while the Přemyslids split their power between the two castles at Vysehrad and Prague. It is thought that Vysehrad Castle provided the residence of the Princesses of the dynasty, and a large palace complex had risen here by the 11th century.However, after a couple of centuries of indecision between the two, Charles IV came to the throne and made the decisive move of the monarchy to the Prague side. Then much of the old castle was destroyed in the Hussite wars. The fort and ramparts you see here were rebuilt in the 18th century. But there's still some of the older history to see too. One is the Rotunda of St. Martin, a small church almost certainly used by those 11th century Princesses. Another is the mysterious Devil's Column, a set of three crooked pillars that are best left to the imagination.Don't be fooled by the Church of St Peter and Paul, which towers over the site. Its great Gothic towers and façade were actually built in the 19th century. But it does house the 14th century panel painting of 'Our Lady of the Rains', which can miraculously end droughts. The Vysehrad Cemetery in the Church's grounds is where many famous Czechs are buried. You may not recognise their names, but the peace and quiet artistry of its tombs make for soothing change from the bustle of the city below.
