Negril, on Jamaica’s most westerly point, was once a backwater town. Pirates, hippies and draft-dodgers have all hung out here over the years, but today this little slice of coast boasts a bounty of tourists and an array of hotels and villas. Negril has one of the most practically perfect coastlines on the island – a complement of cliffs and beaches, with a ringside seat on the setting sun.
There are actually two sides to Negril's tropical coastal charm. To the north lies its spectacular arc of white sands, the famed Seven Mile Beach, where the sea is gentle and the sunset never-ending. To the south is the drama and excitement of the cliffs, where cliff-jumpers gather for acrobatic leaps into aquamarine waters. The beauty of Negril is that you can enjoy both in the space of one evening.
Most head to the beach first, rated as one of the top-ten beaches in the world. Partly that's down to its astonishing length – though many argue about the precise number of miles of pristine, white coral-sand cast here. Partly it's down to a coral-fronted bay, keeping the warm waves to a gentle lapping. Mainly though, it's because the sun lingers longest on this west-facing beach – and dusk is when the beach-side party in Negril really begins.
The West End has its own parties too, of course. But they're based around acts of bravado and daring, made by cliff-jumpers crowding its pretty coves each evening. Here you'll also find private villas, exclusive clubs and impromptu reggae parties that last through the night. The town itself still has a laid-back, alternative feel to it despite the cafés, bars and craft stalls that crowd its busy streets.
But if you want a break from that busyness, try stepping off the beach and into the swamp. The Great Morass it's called, and its twisting waterways include a nature reserve where you may catch glimpses of Jamaican woodpeckers, black parakeets, ospreys or egrets – or even the endangered Jamaican crocodile.