The Island where pots are carved, cars are banned, desserts are served and peace reigns.
Ko Kret Island is place to escape from Bangkok's never ending tussle between busy and calm. It's the quiet side of the fence that the Mon people, living self-sufficiently on this island in the Chao Phraya River, have chosen for themselves. They have lived alongside the Thai's for centuries – and were in fact Thailand's original inhabitants – and have kept a culture that is both similar to and distinct from their Thai neighbours. Starting with their pots. Long ago the Mon became renowned for the exquisite designs of their pots, and they continue to make a living from them today. Ko Kret is one of the main centres for Mon pottery, a big draw tempting tourists here from Bangkok.
The 'island' itself was actually created artificially. A tight bend in the wildly looping Chao Phraya became encircled by water when a canal was dug in 1722. That suited the Mon settled here, 19 kilometres north of Bangkok, just fine. Most visitors to the island come up the River, and are dropped off at one of its many jetties. The first place to head is the Kwan Aman Pottery Museum, where the locals demonstrate how expertly they throw and carve their terra cotta wares. The pots are for sale here, though you may prefer to buy something smaller, like a pottery incense holder.
A walk around the island is as simple as it's stress-free – there are no cars on Ko Kret. It won't take long, either, as the island is only a couple of kilometres or so long. Places to check out include the khlong khanom wan, or Dessert Canal (the Mon are renowned for producing the best desserts in Thailand), and the local temple, Wat Poramai Yikawat.
Built using the Mon's traditional hand-made bricks some 200 years ago, it is a dramatic sight, with its Chedi (temple spire) painted a brilliant white and topped with golden balls. While it may be inspirational, it is, however, also wonky. It leans in towards the river, thanks to encroaching erosion in the river's bank. Which is why Poramai Yikawat is also known as the ‘Declining Pagoda of Ko Kret.' And maybe another example of how the Mon of Ko Kret like to run to a different pace to the city-dwelling Thai's of Bangkok.
