Less a sight to be seen, more a journey to take, through the loss, valour and service of the US armed forces over a century-and-a-half of conflicts.
When you come to Arlington National Cemetery, your visit will likely be wrapped in some sombre reflections. Each of the white stones here - that run in lines towards the horizon - represents a life cut short. Lives across many generations of American history, dedicated to the service of their country in conflict. This is a country that pays the utmost respect to such sacrifice. But a visit to this hallowed place isn't just a step through an often painful history. American heroes of all conflicts, and eras, are buried here. So a walk around Arlington is also a journey through the most personal side of the struggle for the American dream.
Arlington was set aside as a burial ground for America's soldiers at the height of the American Civil War in 1864. Ironically the site that was chosen – a wooded hillside estate, south of the Potomac River – was actually the home of General Lee, commander of the Confederate forces who were then fighting the United States. His house still stands here, and is now an interesting museum, looking at the General's life and the Civil War era.
The graves in this vast cemetery are sectioned into by conflict, or a shared bond between those buried. So there are sections for the Civil War, WWII, the Korean War and Vietnam. There are also sections set aside just for nurses, or for chaplains – or for former slaves who died in the Civil War. The Arlington site is massive, stretching over 252 hectares, and there are many stories to be told. So an initial stop-over at the Visitor Centre is recommended to get your bearings.
It's not just military veterans with graves here, either. Anyone with a connection to a US veteran can petition to have a gravestone in Arlington. There are also burials with an historical connection to the Arlington site. So you will find President J.F. Kennedy buried here, next to Jackie Kennedy, their graves lit by an eternal flame. You will also find graves of a freed slave who was born on the site, and another of a descendant of Pocahontas. A particularly poignant area is dedicated to the astronauts who died in the Space Shuttle Challenger accident. The stories of Arlington truly are as diverse as the nation that dedicated this place to remembering them.
