Two things you cannot get in Shinjuku: a sumo ring anyone can stand on, and a Tokyo area that is not for tourists.

Professional sumo bars women from the dohyo. Here, anyone can step on it. And the street outside is not a preserved attraction: it is Sunamachi Ginza, one of Tokyo's three great shotengai, 140 shops along 670 metres, trading since 1932 and still drawing 15,000 residents on an ordinary weekday.

WHY THIS IS NOT LIKE THE OTHERS

Every sumo experience in Tokyo calls itself authentic. Almost all of them are staged in Shinjuku, Shibuya, Ginza or Asakusa, in districts built for visitors, with a fixed tourist meal included.

This one is in Koto City, in a working shopping street where the customers are the people who live here. You walk in past fishmongers, croquette stands and sweet shops that have served the same area for generations, buy your own food, and carry it in to eat beside the ring.

You are not being shown old Tokyo. You are standing in it.

BEFORE THE SHOW: BUILD YOUR OWN MEAL

Arrive 30-45 minutes early and walk the street. Yakitori, croquettes, seafood, traditional sweets, drinks. Pick what looks good and bring it in.

Food is not included in the ticket, and that is deliberate. A set tourist menu would mean eating what we chose, indoors, instead of what the area is actually famous for.

30 MINUTES: HOW SUMO ACTUALLY WORKS

An English-speaking host explains the history, rituals and rules. Why salt is thrown. What the referee's fan means. How a bout is won.

Sumo looks like two large men pushing until one falls over. Almost everything interesting about it is invisible until someone points it out.

30 MINUTES: THE WRESTLERS

Two former professionals train in front of you, then face each other in real bouts. No stage, no barrier, no stadium seating. Same room, a few metres away. Guests always mention the sound.

30 MINUTES: YOUR TURN, IF YOU WANT IT

Participation is optional and nobody is pushed onto the ring. If you want to try, our staff take you to a private changing area and provide a full change of clothes and a real mawashi. Then you step barefoot onto the clay and face a wrestler.

You will lose. That is the point.

AFTERWARDS

Ask the wrestlers about their training and daily life, and take photos together on the dohyo. Guests who did not challenge are welcome on the ring too.

BEFORE YOU BOOK

Getting here takes a little effort, and that is the reason it still feels like this. It is 15 minutes on foot from Minami-sunamachi Station (Tozai Line) or 20 from Nishi-ojima Station (Toei Shinjuku Line). A bus to Kitasuna 2-chome stops at the street itself, and taxis from either station are short and cheap.

Maximum 40 guests. Shows run year-round, almost every day. Tokyo grand tournaments happen only in January, May and September, so for most of the year this is the way to see real sumo up close.

English support at every show. Wheelchair accessible. Children from 4 can take part; under-4s come free.