The word ‘Byzantine’ could have been invented for Monastiraki Flea Market, a warren of narrow streets, tiny squares and busy cafés nestled close to the ancient heart of Athens. Its wonderfully diverse and unique shops pull in the shoppers and tourists. And that bustling crowd, in turn, brings out the noisy side of the Athenians, who are apt to spark up a song-and-dance at the drop of a tasselled cap. Street jugglers, buskers and artists add to the hubbub, and it’s easy to get carried along by the magnetic swirl of it all.
Which you should undoubtedly do – for an hour or so. With the universe of wares on offer, you're bound to find a bargain (or something to make you smile) in the Flea Market's stalls and tiny shops. Brightly-patterned swathes of cloth, intricately arranged army-surplus, and shiny rows of fake 'ancient' coins – no need for advertising hoardings here to grab your attention, and open your purse.
But once you've haggled for that long-lost Byzantine 'icon', or Parthenon-emblazoned T-shirt, there's much more to see and do in Monastiraki. At its heart is the square, and the sweet little Church of Saint Mary Pantanassa, part of the 10th-century monastery which gave its name to this whole area. Just around the corner is the traditional Ceramics Museum, housed in a beautifully restored Turkish mosque. And up the street, to the left, are the Roman ruins of Emperor Hadrian's Library. History is as excitingly jumbled up in Monastiraki as the wares of its street vendors.
And after all that activity, Monastiraki stands ready to quench your thirst or satisfy your hunger (or most likely both). The side streets are packed with pretty cafeneons and ouzeries, where you can eat seafood mezedes, and drink ouzo, or the home-made khee-ma wine. Monastiraki Flea Market may be part-tourist trap, part-window on the ancient art of retail therapy – but it's always a whole lot of fun.
