To some it's Bangkok's 'party-on-a-dollar' street. To others, the original backpacker's ghetto. For a few, it's even a place to become invisible. The one thing that Khao San Road is to all, is intense. A short crowded street in northern Rattanakosin, its chaotic jumble of clothes stores, street stalls, pad thai carts and tuk-tuks is where Thailand’s budget backpacking scene was born. Now this buzzing community has gone all 'post-modern'. From being a base for cash-strapped travellers to becoming the actual attraction itself. Tourists now come here to watch other tourists. Oh, the irony.
But it's an irony well worth experiencing. This backpacker’s paradise is as close to an authentic 'street' Thai experience as any you'll find in this city. Khao San Road is where East talks to West. And there's a real buzz to the conversation. Street hawkers will try to sell you everything from an on-the-spot tailored suit, to gaudy jewellery, to imitation watches. Thai, Mon and Chinese mix with Aussies, Brits and Germans. You'll almost certainly bump into someone from Christchurch. And over all hangs the thick scent of a hundred nations cooking – seared roti, spiced falafel, boiled quail eggs, rich pasta dishes and the ubiquitous pad thai fried noodles.
Khao San Road still makes an excellent base for those counting the coins. The streets are home to literally hundreds of tiny, cheap hotels. The food is inexpensive and varied. Most of Bangkok's major attractions are within walking distance. And coaches still leave from nearby stops, whisking backpackers and beach-hunters to Thailand's resorts and tourist hubs. The bustling vibe is infectious.
But there are also things to do in Khao San beyond the obligatory crowd-watching and haggling. An important Buddhist temple, Wat Chana Songkram, is at the western end, and there are small Islamic mosques nearby. The road even boasts an (admittedly small) art gallery. And Khao San hosts the best attended Songkran (Thai New Year) party in the city – hordes of tourist converge to make this the epicentre of the grand water fights that break out across Bangkok. It may be the 'short road that has the longest dream'. But on April the 15th it is also the wettest.
