Some of the most renowned makers of porcelain and enamelwork originate in Limoges, the capital city of Haute-Vienne, a department of Nouvelle-Aquitaine. Limoges is one of the country’s “Cities of Art and History.” Come for Haute-Vienne’s museums and iconic architecture stay for its unspoiled wilderness in many natural parks.
Arrive in Limoges by train in order to pass through the famously beautiful Gare de Limoges, a spectacular art nouveau station crowning the city’s hill. Appreciate the city’s pride at the Musée National Adrien Dubouché, which displays marvelous Limousin porcelain. Peek into the Musée des Beaux Arts, featuring Limoges’ earlier specialty decorative art and enamelwork, within a magnificent neoclassical Bishop’s palace.
Walk out to the spectacular Jardin de l’Évêché behind the museum and wander among traditional French-style flowerbeds and fountains. Walk up the hill to the Limoges Cathedral, an awe-inspiring example of Limousin architecture and one of few gothic cathedrals south of the Loire.
Rent a car or some bicycles in Limoges and head into Haute-Vienne countryside to appreciate the fresh air and agriculture of this rural part of Nouvelle-Aquitaine. Visit farms and breweries to taste famous Limousin cider or warm up with a serving of potée limousine, a hearty pork and vegetable stew.
Connect with the region’s more tragic history at Oradour-sur-Glane, a national monument commemorating a massacre during Nazi occupation of the region. Combine your visit to the site with Limoges’ Musée de la Résistance, which honors the bravery of the Résistance and reveals Haute-Vienne’s complicated past.
Travel by rail for 3 hours from Paris to Limoges, which has Haute-Vienne’s only large train station. Fly into the closest international airport in Bordeaux, 3 hours away by train or 2 hours by car. Train services are somewhat limited within the department, so rent a car or bicycle to explore the countryside.
Far from the crowds in France’s big cities, Haute-Vienne is a perfect spot to find serenity, with a lot of culture as well.