A tunnel of greenery greets drivers – but the best is saved for those who park up and head out along the gully’s trails.
Of all of Jamaica's verdant splendour, Fern Gully is one of its most prized. Maybe it's the narrow, claustrophobic slopes of this gully, down which the road weaves a precarious route. Maybe it's the towering fronds of giant palms, which reach out across the road to create a living green tunnel. Maybe it's because of the strange tale of its formation – an earthquake which swallowed a river.
Whatever the reason, this is one of the most popular attractions around Ocho Rios. Keep your eyes peeled on the main road from Kingston for signs that will lead you down the twisting road through Fern Gully. The drive down the 5-kilometre road does not take long, and the best way to appreciate Fern Gully is to pull up the car, and head out on your own two feet, along one of its many trails.
Fern Gully is actually an old river bed, a site where a fast-flowing stream once cut its way through the rocks, forming the ravine you see today. It was only possible to build a road here after the earthquake of 1907, which resulted in the river being swallowed by newly opened fissures. Now water only flows here in times of exceptionally heavy rains.
Threading through Fern Gully's trails, you'll find no end of interesting details. First there's the change in temperature. It's cooler and more humid here, under the dense forest canopy. That natural splendour, with over 200 species of ferns, also includes bamboo stands and tall hardwood trees, like ebony and mahogany. Then there's the famous Blue Mahoe, the national tree of Jamaica, with its heart-shaped leaves and blue-tinted wood.
You'll also find that many locals have set up intriguing craft stalls along the route. Many of these feature finely crafted pieces, worked in the indigenous Maroon style. It all makes for a very different atmosphere to the sunlit, tourist-packed beaches – and a fascinating way of getting closer to the other Jamaica, far from the bright lights of the city and resorts.
