St Charles's Church in Vienna was built with an empire in mind. Construction started in 1716 at the behest of Charles VI (then Holy Roman Emperor) to be the personal church of Austria's Hapsburg rulers. And when you stand, somewhat awestruck, at its front porch and take in all that glorious detail, it's hard to miss the echoes of Austria’s imperial past.
The entrance is a marble Greek portico, shaped like mini Parthenon. The twin columns either side are directly inspired by Trajan's Column, which honoured Rome’s most respected emperors. And the whole ensemble – with its copper-topped central dome and flanking towers – is reflected in a wide oval pool at the front. There's more than a hint of the Taj Mahal, and its Mughal emperors, about St Charles’s.
You could also say that this beautiful building captures the confidence of a city at its peak. The church is dedicated to St Charles Borromeo, the reforming Archbishop of Milan, after Charles IV promised to build a grand church in honour of him if the city was relieved of the plague that it was suffering in 1713. The plague promptly passed, and the foundation of St Charles’s were lain shortly after.
The inside of the church aims to outshine the splendour of the facade. The marble columns are framed by warm pink carvings, highlighted in gold. All these intricate ornaments lead your eye to the sky-blue high altar-piece, with its dramatic fresco backdrop of Charles Borromeo, ascending towards sainthood. Few churches pack such a powerful visual punch.
The interior artistry doesn't stop there, either. Some 70 metres above the altar, St Charles's domed roof is awash with brightly painted frescoes. Painted by Johannes Michael Rottmayr of Salzburg and Gaetano Fanti, they show angels, the Virgin Mary, Martin Luther and Charles Borromeo. To get up close to the dome fresco, climb the stairs or take the elevator.
St Charles’s is located in central Vienna near Karlsplatz and is open every day. The easiest way to get here is by public transport or on foot.
