Long a preserve of royalty, El Parque de Retiro is where the Habsburgs, Europe's most powerful monarchs, came to play. Its giant pond hosted mock naval battles, its formal gardens saw elaborate and extravagant plays. Now it's the place you come to, to picnic, promenade and ponder – and maybe push the paddle-boat out, onto the waters of the Estanque del Retiro.El Retiro means 'retreat' and that's what King Phillip II planned to do here, in 1561, when he moved his court from Toledo to Madrid. He wanted a quiet garden around the nearby church that the royal family were to use. And under Phillip IV, in the 1630's, a proper Royal Palace grew up here. The gardens were extended to cover 121 hectares, and laid out to match the finest Rome gardens of the time.The result was a complex of formal Renaissance gardens, ponds, tree-lined avenues, canals and lakes – making it into one of the 'garden wonders' of the age. Since then, its fortunes have risen and fallen with the royal family's – it finally become public in 1868 – while gathering an increasingly impressive collection of statues. An engaging afternoon can be had tracking them all down.The best-known is the monument to King Alfonso XII, sat astride his horse, next to the Retiro pond. There are more regal statues along the Paseo de la Argentina, which is lined with 18th century Spanish Kings. And El Retiro has the dubious honour of hosting the only known public statue to the Devil – El Angel Caído by Ricardo Bellver. He was inspired by Milton's Paradise Lost to carve a representation of Lucifer, being cast from heaven.There's more art at the Palacio de Velázquez, a neoclassical 19th century building, originally built to house mining exhibits. The Palacio de Cristal, built at the same time in 1887, was by the same architect, Ricardo Velázquez. It is a splendid cross of arched glass panes, topped by a 21-metre high glass dome – and is now also used for artistic exhibitions. The culture slips into the musical too – the Banda Sinfónica de Madrid gives free concerts throughout the summer. Come to Retiro Park, and its guaranteed you won't have a 'cultural bone' left un-tickled.
El Retiro Park Tours and Activities
Visit El Retiro Park
Attractions
See all 21 activitiesOpens in new tabParque Warner from Madrid Full Day Trip
Tours & day trips
See all 688 activitiesOpens in new tabDay Tour to Toledo, Segovia & optional visit to Avila. 3 cities in 1 day
Private & custom tours
See all 200 activitiesOpens in new tabMadrid: Private City Tour by Eco Tuk Tuk
Shows & concerts
See all 35 activitiesOpens in new tabMadrid: Live Flamenco Show with Food and Drinks Options
Adventure & outdoor
See all 42 activitiesOpens in new tabMadrid: Private City Tour by Eco Tuk Tuk
Reviews of El Retiro Park
4/5 - Good
Crystal Place was closed but still spectacular from the outside. They were in between exhibitions when we were there early October
5/5 - Excellent
Hop on hop off buses are a great way to get around and check out the locations that you are interested in.
Popular places to visit
Glass Palace
Modeled on London’s famous Crystal Palace, this 19th-century building is made almost entirely of glass and today hosts regular exhibitions.
Velazquez Palace
You can learn about the history of Madrid with a visit to Velazquez Palace. Discover the acclaimed art galleries and shops in this vibrant area.
Alfonso XII Monument
You can find out about the history of Madrid with a visit to Alfonso XII Monument. Discover the acclaimed theatre scene and shops in this vibrant area.
Retiro Park Lake
Commune with nature and explore the great outdoors at Retiro Park Lake during your travels in Madrid. Discover the top-notch restaurants and fascinating museums in this walkable area.
Cason del Buen Retiro
Part of the Prado Museum, this neoclassical landmark is one of the last surviving buildings of a palace that once stood in El Retiro Park.
Statue of the Fallen Angel
Find out about the history of Madrid when you take a trip to Statue of the Fallen Angel. Experience the fascinating museums and acclaimed theatre scene in this vibrant area.
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